Around the Horn

On the 4th day of a two week cruise the seas got angry. With seas to 30 Ft and winds to 100Km we were denied permission to dock in our next 3 ports. People were a litle disgruntled since they were the most sought after ports but there was nothing we could do about it. We cruised the Beagle Channel named after Darwin and saw the glaciers. We entered the Straight of Magellan and cruised there also. Finally we braved the Cape Horn where the Atlantic and Pacific meet over Antartica. 400 ships hav been lost there. We were given certificates for making the crossing. Then we headed up to Argentina and Uraguay. We were not able to land in the Falklands either.

Life aboard the ship was amazing.. We had a culinary center on board with several classes and guest chefs including Alex Seidel. We had a special dinner with a guest chef involving pairings of wine and South American foods. There was also a Haloween pairing dinner with fine wines. We also took a mixology class and graduated with certificates from that also. We made good friends with the bartender Christian and the head of the booze department. I posted pictures on facebook of the flaming drinks. In the class we had to make a number of cocktails and had to drink them all 🙂 Next stop Puerto Madryn Argentina.. Here come the penguins…

Puerto Chacbuco

Our second stop was at Puerto Chacabuco, another lovely place in Chile. We got off the ship and negociated with a taxi to take us on a tour. Unfortunatley for Pam we didnt find taxi guides that spoke english but I ended up making friends and ultimately think we got a better tour because of it. One cool thing to note here is that areas of the highway that are prone to movement are constructed with a seires of intricate almost interlocking tiles which allow them to move when necessary. Don’t have to keep repairing the road.

Back Online Puerto Montt

It’s been about a month since I updated this. I’ll start with the cruise from Valparaiso to Buenos Aires. Cruses are always a blast. Relaxation, good food and drink, very good company and good ports. Our first port of call was Puerto Montt. My friewnd Teri Graf-Pulvino sent a cab from to meet us. He gave us an excellent tour before taking us to Frutillar to lunch with Teri. Purto Varras was beautiful and reminded me of home. we saw waterfalls and a green lake. Beautiful. The big volcano had erupted in April and many houses had collapsed under the weight of the ash. Everything was still covered in a.  layer of ash. Our guide reached up and shook a tree and small rocks fell out that had been trapped. This was one of the mosst beautiful stops so far. I am blown away more by the similarities beween Humboldt and here than I am by the differences.

Central Chile

Shopping mall Santiago
Shopping mall Santiago
Downtown Santiago. Bolsa de Comercio
Downtown Santiago. Bolsa de Comercio

Ok  we got to Santiago. This is a city of 3 million and is labeled as the most expensive city in South America. It is a beautiful modern city. The streets are clean and there are conveniences I have never seen. There is a very effifcient subway system as well as a bus system.We are still staying with my old room mate, Carlos Pizarro, and his daughter. We have been here a week and as I write this we are packing to leave in the morning for a cruise from Valparaiso Chile going to Buenos Aires Argentina. the cruise is 14 days and passes through the Channel where Darwin sailed. Pam is very anxious to see penguins. I have another old friend that lives in Frutillar but it doesn’t look like we will make contact this trip. (Just talked to her while editing this and it looks like we might. Teri Graf Pulvino. She was my tennis partner at the University.

Earlier I made a comment about how in comparison Eureka, Ca is a third world country which drew some criticism. All I was saying is that when most people think of South America I think they have an image of very underdeveloped countries living in poverty and it just isn’t true. In Eureka we have a lot of people living in the streets and begging. We have a small mostly empty mall and almost no elevators. By contrast a lot of these cities have very modern and gigantic malls and major conveniences. For all the travels so far we haven’t seen many beggars or homeless people. OK that explanation probably doesn’t help much unless you live in ..

Folkloric dancers
Folkloric dancers
Juan Estay and Wilma
Juan Estay and Wilma

In Santiago I had the chance to connect with another old friend, Juan Estay and his wife Wilma. They treated us all to a fantastic night of dining on paradillas, large community plates of steaks and other meats. We are talking T-Bone and sirloin. Quite a few bottles of excellent Chilean wine and Pisco Sours, there was a folkloric dancing show and then it was open to dancing. We danced for hours. I don’t dance in the US but here it is different.

Besides the fantastic malls Santiago has a lot to offer in the way of history as well. We went to many cultural places like the museum of fine arts and the Plaza de Armas. Santiago has a hop on hop off tourist bus much like the trolley in San Diego, Ca. We went to the Finicular which has a tram that goes pretty much straight up the hill over a rock floor and is drawn by cable. Pam almost lost it. We have had the opportunity to sample some of the local dishes like Charquekan a plate made of mashed potatoes and pureed carrots and squash. It is a little different each place but it is great.


Of course Chile is famous for its wines. We got to tour some vineyards yesterday. They are quite large productions here but we were at one famous one that keeps its barrels in a room that is constantly playing music like chants and classic. This winery is all about Feng Shue and everything is kept in balance. K gotta go. Will update more later..IF I buy internet access on the ship.

Still in Chile

We have been gone for a month now. Have not had internet for a while now or if I have had I’ve been too damn tired. Dont usually get to bed until 2 am. We are in Antofagasta Chile. There is a beatiful boardwalk that runs for miles around the city and we have an esquisite view of the ocean from the apartment.

We went to San Pedro de Atacama and saw some amazing things. This is the desert and there are salt flats everywhere. We stayed in San Pedro a couple of days. This is an old old town which attracts a lot of tourists kinda like a spring break thing. Lots of young americans. On the way we stopped at Chacabuco, an old nitrate mine, quite common in that part of Chile but all out of business now since the Germans developed artificial nitrates during the war ansd so they were no longer needed for explosives. This one had been converted into a prison during the Pinochet regime. Very interesting and educational.

From San Pedro we visited the Valley of Jarez in Tocanao. This is a beautiful little valley with a small river and a rock mine, liparite, a very light volcanic rock that looks a lot like sandstone, and some petroglifs. Tocanao has an extremely old church built in 1744. From there we went to the National Reserve of the flamingos in Laguna Chaxa. This is in the middle of the Salt Flat of Atacama, the third largest in the world. It is amazing to pick up and taste raw salt.

Flamingo Reserve Laguna Chaxa
Atacama Salt Flat


We had contracted to go to the geysers at Tatia the following morning, this is the most famous attraction in that part of Chile but that afternoon a Belgian tourist had got too close and was critically burned by a geyser. As per custom they had to close the geyers for five days to investigate so we were out of luck. We decided to go to the Valley of the Moon, another very famous place but we got there too late and it was closed. SOOOO we went to Calama, where Carlos was born and from there took a tour to the worlds largest copper mine in Chuquicamata. We were all suited up with hard hats and respirators. Unfortuantely when we got up there at 9500 ft the wind was blowing at 60-70 MPH so they wouldnt let us go down into the mine. We were treated, however, to some very interesting talks about copper mining. Chuquicamata used to be a large company town with housing and many cultural things like theatres and one of the most advanced hospitals but in the early 2000s the government declared it to be an environmental hazard for people to live there so everyone had to move to Calama and now commute. As the mine grew many of the houses etc have been burried in rock.

2015-10-09 13.36.59

We have spent two weekends in Punta Itata where Carlos has a beach house. It is barely spring so there is not much tourist traffic yet. This part of Chile is all desert and only gets a couple of milimeters of rain a year so water is precious. All of the water at the beach is supplied by gravity tanks so there is limited pressure. We cooked with Carbon chunks, not nice little brickettes but big chunks.

Punta Itata is next to Mejillones a little coastal town where copper is shipped from. They also have quite a bit of sea food there. Chile is famous for locos, known as abalone but it is actual a different species more commonly know as false abalone. Not nearly as big but otherwise quite similar. We bought 24 for $16.00 The guy there cleaned them for us and then “pounded” them by placing them in a mesh bag and beating them against the rocks. Chile is also famous for its osteones which are scallops. They have been over fished and tsunamis and other natural disasters have made them hard to find just now. We also ate erisa which is Sea Urchin and is also quite popular. There is a type of muscle here that measures about 7 inches long and is quite good also. They have good old surf smelt too 🙂

A day at the beach Punta Itata
2015-10-10 15.55.24
Pounding abalone in Mejillones

Next week we head for Santiago, one of the largest and most expensive cities in the world. We are looking at some day trips from there and on the 25th Pam and I leave from Valparaiso on a 14 day cruise around the horn to Buenos Aires Argentina. After that we go to Machu Picchu back in Peru and then on to Guayaquil Ecuador. After that who knows.. We spent the lions share of our budget here in Chile and I may have to come back to California for a year or two to work it off 🙂  K more later


Tacna to Antofagasta

First impression of Tacna Peru is that the drivers are sane and the city is beautiful. Very different from Lima. We stayed 2 nights and took a tour of the surrounding area including a visit to some petrogliphs and a winery where they make Pisco. That night we took at taxi and crossed the border into Chile to a town called Arica, the city of eternal spring. Again a beautiful calm city. Changed my opinion of Latin America after the craziness of Lima.

In Arica, Chile we also stayed 2 nights and took a tour up to Lake Chungara. This is the highest non navigable lake in the world at 16000 ft. Altitude sickness is a bitch. Thse tour stops every few thousand feet for 15-30 minutes to allow you to adjust. About 14000 ft  things got interesting with a bad pain around my stomach which has taken 2 days to abate. I think it was pressure against old hernias. When you reach those altitudes you expand. When you come down you are full of gasses that you have to get rid of 🙂 There is abundant wildlife up at the top but up to then there is little because most of the country is desert. We saw a lot of Alpaca and Llamas.

We got back to Arica at 8PM and caught a bus to Antofagasta at 10:45  These are nice buses with sleeper seats. It was a 12 hour trip. We are staying with my old college roommate in his beautiful apartment overlooking the ocean.

Things here are expensive. I have had trouble changing dollars because they wont take the dollars unless they are the new ones ($100,00) and most importantly must be in mint condition. Frustrating. Have not been able to get the phone to work right yet.. 4 hours difference here. Miss you all.. See you later


Reunited at Last

Carlos y Luisa
Carlos y Luisa

This is my old roommate we are going to stay with him for the next month. Our flight to Tacna from Lima was a little rough. We were not able to land in Tacna due to wind shear so we had to go back to Arequipa and wait in the plane for two hours before we were able to get to Tacna. Today we are going to explore Tacna and probably head to chile tomorrow

Playing Catch Up

Punta con Tontolin
At long last I meet Tontolin, a pen pal.
Pam Larcomall
Lunch overlooking the ocean
Grandma Pam
Once a grandma, always a grandma
Guinea Pig on the Grill
Guinea Pig on the Grill

The site has been down for a few days so I’ll try to play catch up by observations.

  1. I believe the reason you don’t see fat people here is because they are too slow to cross the road and so always lose the obligatory game of chicken. Its a form of Darwinism.
  2. There are a TON of Chifas, or Chinese restaurants here but I seldom see any Chinese. When I inquired I was told its because they are all inside cooking 🙂
  3. The most important part of the car is the horn. Without it you die in seconds.
  4. Almost all of the milk sold here is in cans.
  5. There is a park called Kennedy Park that is home to over 300 cats. They act like dogs. they beg and cuddle up to everyone. Way cool and I don’t normally like cats.
  6. There is an excellent beverage called Chicha Morena which is made by boiling purple corn and mixing in cinnamon and other spices.
  7. Cartoon characters here are much more intelligent. They even speak Spanish.

Yesterday Pam and I took the bus alone to Miraflores to play. We had a buffet at a high class restaurant then went to a casino, imagine that. Went shopping in an Inca market then home by buss. Today we went to a BIG shopping mall. WOW. Had to come to Peru to find such modern conveniences. They have escalators, for instance, that are built to take shopping carts on them. The stop lights here all have a large LED counter on them so you know how many seconds more it will stay that color. I kinda think its so you know how long before you get hit. If you close your eyes when riding in a car it will STILL scare the hell out of you. Tonight we went to Sucro and had a fantastic meal of Pisco Sours followed by Picarones ( Portuguese doughnuts or fritters) then Anticuchos ( skewers with large pieces of meat marinated and grilled. Wonderful. For three of us the cost was about $33.00  Gas is about the same price here. Maybe just a little more. Big plans for tomorrow. A visit to Pachcamac to see the ruins and maybe a trip to the museum of the inquisition. We never know for sure. Then we have to repack because Saturday morning we go to Chile..This truly is a great adventure. What the hell are you all waiting for. Your excuses don’t hold water. Go while you still can..

Cutting in line and Dancing Waters

2015-09-17 19.07.35Palace Guards Lima, like many other cities in South America, has a law that requires people to give up their seats on public transport to people in “the third age”, pregnant, with infants or handicapped. A major difference is that they give up the seat with a smile. The law also says that those people do not wait in line but go to the head of the class. That’s right.. I am in my third age, over 60 or 65 depending, and the last bus on the way home tonight was way crowded and the line was quite long. We exercised that privilege and while I was a little nervous all the people in line were very cool with it. Turns out that while the line had maybe a hundred people in it only 4 of us were old or pregnant. I noticed this all day long. I had a lot of trouble finding old people or fat people like me. When I did find them they were usually old, fat and a tourist.
We started the day with a trip from Rafael’s house into downtown Lima.This was a trip of 1 and 1/2 hours involving a bus and then a train like bus. Lima is divided into districts, each with its own municipal government and sub culture. You go from the far outskirts, where things appear impoverished, into the center of town which is big business and quite modern. Then there’s the old town, resplendent with the presidential palace and many cathedrals and colonial buildings. We also went to the top of San Cristobal where you can look down in every direction at the city and at the same time see the hills and the ocean. Breath taking. After a Pisco Sour, they really haven’t discovered good beer yet, we decided to visit the “Magic Water Circuit”. This is an elaborate labyrinth of incredible themed fountains. There is a show at dark with Dancing Waters and little movies and lazer shows all done inside the fountain. There is another one that I swear reaches a good 50 ft up. Pam was so enthralled that she made me promise we would do it again before we leave Lima.We are going to the city center again to see the museums and other attractions. We probably walked a good two miles today and I have to give kudos to Pam. She has been a real trooper and an inspiration.
One more comment. Earlier I said that things “appeared” impoverished. There is indeed poverty evident but even more there is the environment. Many houses look fine on the first floor but the second stories are crumbling and or unfinished. There has been an unexpected abundance of rain over the last few years and that has wreaked havoc on the buildings. You don’t see people begging and lamenting their condition and the camaraderie
and kindness shown to strangers is very evident.

Wheels up and Wheels down

We were panick packing until 3 AM and had to leave for the airport by 4.. What took so long–43 years of marriage, which means I lose the argument. The origianal plan was for one backpack apiece. Last minute I find my self helping to vaccuum pack plastic bags full of clothes and stuffing them into two large suitcases.That means we now have 2 gigantic suitcases that weigh about 60 lbs each plus 2 large backpacks plus 2 cpap machine bags and a big ass purse. There is no way in hell im lugging that all over the continent ( unless she says so).
We had incredibly comfortable flights and made every connection with minutes to spare. Onboard movies were great. Its incredibly expensive to eat in airports but the food was great. We had Irish Coffees in the Buena Vista in SF along with a breakfast burrito we shared. In Houston we had a couple of fancy cocktails and shared a plate of crawfish etuffe and fried crawfish. Wonderful but the bill was 100.00 all together. In Houston there was a bar named the Local. Ill send pics later. That is the name of the bar that we frequented that I now fear must shut dowwn because we can no longer support it 🙂
Lima is a city of around 9 million people and is GIGANTIC. It took an hour by taxi to get to my friends house and I am told you can drive twice that and still be in lima. Today is a rest day- We still dont have any fixed plans but its time to start thinking about the trip to Machu Picchu in the next couple of weeks. I got a terrible cold the day before we left and I am consuming alcohol in an attempt to defeat it.
See you all in March…away we go…….